But before running out and buying a whole herd of bovines, taking the time to consider all the aspects of cattle ownership and care may prove the wisest move.  Here, four Colorado professional trainers who all make use of both cattle and buffalo in their operations weigh in on the purposes, benefits and drawbacks of each, as well as various space, feed and health considerations.

Article: Jenn Erickson, Copyright ©2005.

Cattle... or buffalo... or both?

All four trainers agree that while buffalo are very helpful in schooling reined cowhorses, having fresh cattle is absolutely essential.

“It’s what your horses have to contend with in the show pen,” Jill Cook of Erie, CO , states.  “A cow will do certain things that a buffalo won’t, because a cow can quickly get tired, or mad, or both.  Buffalo are generally more consistent and straightforward, once you get them trained.  Horse show cattle might be wild and fast, or completely numb; you are dealing with various breeds, ages and sexes of cattle.  Some may not have been handled well prior to the show.  Your horse has to get comfortable with all those variables.” 

Her husband, Jim Cook, agrees.  “I know some guys will say you can get everything you need to get done on a well-trained buffalo, but there’s just no substitute for working cattle.  If a horse has dealt with it at one time or another at home, they won’t just want to turn tail when a tough cow come out the gate at a horse show... same with the Non Pro aboard,” he laughs.  “In many ways it can turn into a source of confidence for horse and rider.” 

Cattle are slower-moving than buffalo, and Darren Miller of Watkins , CO , appreciates that for his young horses, which need to gain a feeling of control over the situation.  “The buffalo are so fast that a colt can get overwhelmed pretty quick.” 

Tim Unzicker, Calhan, CO, will work his young horses on a buffalo, but only after the buffalo in question has been well-trained using more experienced horses.  A patterned buffalo has learned to stop, wait, and turn when the horse is in position, and has been worked sensibly enough times that their naturally wild instincts don’t take over.  They’re watchful and responsive but not fretful when alone with a horse in a round pen or arena.

Fresh cattle are generally easy to turn on the fence, setting up to stop just when a horse eases by them at a lope, even in close proximity.  This isn’t always the case with a buffalo, which, if pressured the wrong way by accident, is more likely to speed up and crash right through the solid fence.  Working buffalo down the fence requires the rider to stay much further off the buffalo laterally, which does not lend itself as well to creating pretty, tight, fast turns.  There are also show situations where a cow with no ‘honor’ can require the horse to take charge and use some muscle on a cow to physically get it turned.  The self-preserving buffalo does not provide opportunity to practice this situation.

While the Cooks work their buffalo primarily in a large, cutting-style round pen to teach their horses a pattern of stop-wait-turn, Tim Unzicker and Darren Miller do use buffalo in their larger arenas - but are careful to take it very slowly at first. Darren finds that eventually the buffalo can be very good for schooling his horses on circling.  He points out that a buffalo will not lean on you like a cow might, and so a horse doesn’t learn the bad habit of leaning back.  Instead he has to stay upright and balanced, and learn that position - not force - is the right way to control the situation.

The biggest advantage all four trainers felt that buffalo had over cattle, and ultimately what made them worth owning or leasing, was their longevity.  With their undomesticated instincts, large lungs, and bodies built for remaining alert and on the go, buffalo are refreshingly long lasting compared to cattle.  There is an oft-heard adage among cutters and cow horse trainers: “It used to take four cows to work a horse, now it takes four horses to work a buffalo.” With proper training and handling, the same set of buffalo can last a reined cow horse rider several years. Proof in point is that all four trainers own their buffalo, but prefer to lease cattle for anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks at a time. 

So, you want to be a rancher?

“One of the things people need to realize about having cattle or buffalo around is that you need to be at least as good a cattleman as you are a horseman,” Tim emphasizes.  “You need to know how to feed and care for them, how to gather and sort them in the least stressful way.  I really encourage my Non Pros to handle cattle on foot a lot.  They learn when to step into the cow and when to back off. Lack of experience in reading cattle is something that seems to get Non Pros in trouble over and over again.  That stuff is hard to teach in a lesson once a week.”

Giving new cattle or buffalo time to settle in before working them is very important.  These trainers let a new herd settle for at least a few days or up to a week, and then often ease cattle into the routine by working them out of the herd for a few weeks before going down the fence. 

As far as accommodations, both cattle and buffalo need ample space to feed and rest in… the more the better.  Fencing should ideally be solid and stout.  Jim and Jill prefer a 5 foot tall woven bull wire fence for their buffalo, kept in a pen close to the indoor arena.  Herds with more room have less pressure to test fences and will not be as likely to look for holes or weaknesses.   Darren maintains that his buffalo don’t tear as much fencing up and don’t run into objects like the cattle do.  Overhead shelter is not necessary provided they have a windbreak of some sort, and a mound in the pen is always preferable to give them a place to get up and stay dry.

Cattle in general are most wasteful than buffalo, and eat more, translating into a higher cost to feed.  1^st or 2^nd cutting alfalfa with a good quality supplement usually suits the need to put gain on cattle, but buffalo seem to do better on grass forage and occasionally grain or pasture supplements. Jim estimates that his cattle cost approximately $1 a day per head to feed to maintain a ‘gain’ situation. Feeding your stock in bunks or out of large round feeders will minimize waste, and an automatic waterer is recommended.

Of course, another ongoing concern is health care.  Both Jim and Jill Cook have a strong background in veterinary medicine and note that while cattle frequently suffer from ulcerated or pink eyes, pneumonia and respiratory diseases, buffalo are generally much hardier.  The downside is that by the time a buffalo will let you see that it’s sick, it’s usually very sick.  Which is about the only time you will be able to doctor on a buffalo!  If you’re planning on getting cattle, Jill recommends buying a squeeze chute with a head gate to help you treat your cows. And just like horses, cattle need to be vaccinated regularly - consult with your veterinarian.

The logistics...

How many cattle or buffalo should you get? Where can you get them? And how long can you expect them to last and be usable?

How much stock you need will obviously depend on how many horses you are working, and how often. These four trainers need an average of 2-5 head of cattle per horse, for a period of three to six weeks. “I'd like to see my cattle in and out in three weeks, ideally,” Darren states, “but realistically, you will need 45 to 60 days to put a gain on ones you're leasing or buying to sell.” Tim likes to have a week to let the cattle settle at the beginning, and then another work-free week at the end to help with gain, which typically translates to five or six weeks on the property.

While you may not require as many buffalo for your horse training needs, the well-being of the stock also has to be considered. “Buffalo can be fretful on their own,” Jim relates, “Get at least three so they'll have buddies.” Jim and Jill find that 5 or 6 buffalo are sufficient to work 15-20 horses long-term, and a buffalo calf old enough to begin training may only cost $350 to $450 (approximately $1/lb).

Leasing or owning is another common dilemma. Tim Unzicker will lease buffalo on a year-long agreement for a gain of 300 lbs, but generally most buy their buffalo through reputable ranchers who specialize in the stock. This way they can take the time needed to train the animal as well as reap the benefits of that training for years to come.

As far as cattle, if you have the time, facilities and feed for your own, you may actually make money with your own cattle. There is some capital outlay - about $15-20,000 will get you 30-35 head in Colorado - and you have to go to the trouble of attending a sale, often putting your own herd together through the ‘odds n ends’ at an auction. That's the way Darren prefers it. “I'd rather feed my own,” he states, “you may make a little or lose a little, but it keeps you in the driver's seat.”

Leasing requires that you make a commitment to put weight on the cattle before sending them home after an agreed upon period. Leased cattle may have been dulled or become aggressive through prior handling, but you won't know the extent of that until you've worked them, and even then you will have to ‘make do’ until it's time for them to leave. If for some reason they don't gain during their stay, it's your responsibility to pay the supplier the difference. And if one should die, you own it.

Despite those drawbacks, many trainers try to find a reliable supplier and cultivate a good relationship. The advantages of having fresh cattle every month or so without taking the time to buy and sell them tips the scales in favor of leasing. If you have just a few head of horses to ride as a Non Pro, leasing a small herd of cattle may work out well for your needs.

Black cow, red cow...?

If you haven't been exposed to different kinds of cattle, how can you know what to look for? All four trainers agree that you are mainly at the mercy of what is available in your area, but that some breeds and types of cattle are definitely more desirable. Heifers, for example, are well-known to stay fresh longer than steers. Tim Unzicker likes them to be over 500 lbs, while the Cooks prefer a 400-500 lb animal that eats less.

“We like the cross-bred cattle best, the English breeds like Hereford or Angus mixed with a Brahman - something with a little ‘ear’ to it. Those seem to last longer and have a good attitude. The Hereford can be pretty dull and the Angus seem to sull up or turn into fence crawlers pretty easily,” Jim relates.

Darren also prefers a Brahman cross, or a black baldy, commercial-type heifer. He finds the Herefords to sour fairly quickly, and notes that while the more southern Brahma-type cattle can seem a bit wild, they soon settle into being very workable.

Each trainer stressed proper handling to prolong the working life of your cattle. Do not put them in situations where they will beat your horse, because the cattle will learn it quickly and soon be useless. “Once they learn the game,” says Darren, “the game's over.” Try to turn them out as often as you can to keep them mentally fresh.

The artificial cow...

There are many means to an end and you can preserve whatever stock you do acquire by supplementing your bovine time with other fill-ins.

“You can fix a lot of positioning problems on a mechanical cow,” notes Jill Cook. Some of the trainers use it to teach their colts a pattern... stop straight, wait, turn with the ‘cow’, over and over again. A mechanical cow, electrically running along a set line (or pedaled with a bicycle, the old-fashioned way), has it's limits since it will not move toward or away from your horse... but it is still a great tool for reined cow horse trainers.

Other aids include... well, anything that moves. Darren has made use of burros and goats in the past, Tim has worked yearling colts on horseback, and all of them have worn out a training assistant or two on foot. “The important thing is to keep those muscles conditioned, because it is a specific set of muscles that are used in working a cow. If you're cow-less for awhile, you can get creative in finding something for your horse to work.”

Buffalo, cattle and even artificial cows have their place in training reined cow horses. With a little research, you might find that you're willing to take the leap and acquire some stock for your own training program. Good luck from DownTheFence.com!

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Bonus: Do you have the skills to compete successfully in the reined cow horse arena? Check out the sport psychology article by competitor Dr. Irene Harris here.


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